rn | rn A multitude of processes are used in order to return any vehicle to original specifications. In some cases you cannot, due to part availability or cost, complete a 100% restoration. At other times you really don't want to because doing so would either degrade the longevity, or make the machine unsafe to use. In these circumstances you try to stay as close to original and do the best you can. When starting a restoration, do your homework first. Find out what is original, then make your decision as to what you will do. Without a plan your going to stick with, you will soon get off track and far away from your original goal. Generally speaking, the restoration process follows these steps; rn rn - Remove the part from the machine
rn - Clean and remove old paint and surface rust from the part (by any number of methods)
rn - Continue rust abatement process (electrolysis cleaning, if required)
rn - Repair and refurbish part if necessary, and re-clean part after repairs are completed (if required)
rn - Apply rust neutralizer (such as Eastwood Rust Converter, POR-15 Metal Ready, Stop-Rust, etc.)
rn - Apply primer (ALWAYS do this, use the same manufacturers primer as the paint manufacturer you will use {always preferred} or use a high-quality automotive grade-sandable primer, 1-3 coats, as required)
rn - Fill voids with glazing putty and sand primer smooth, re-clean surface with de-greaser and dry thoroughly (if required).
rn - Apply a minimum of two coats of paint color (or apply two coat minimum of base coat if doing clear coat). Apply.
rn - Wet-sand base color and clean/de-grease, dry thoroughly (if NOT applying clear coat, go to step 11).
rn - Apply clear coat (if used) and allow to dry at least 3 days.
rn - Wet-sand (if required) and/or buff to high gloss shine.
rn rn Several of the methods that are employed in the process of restoring parts to their original factory condition are easy. Obviously we are talking about 50 year old hardware, and one should pay as much attention to the parts condition as to the items intended use on the machine. Under certain conditions a part which would normally not be used (would normally be replaced) on a "working machine", can be used on a "show machine". This statement warrants some explanation. rn In the case of the transmission, you are likely to find that the Brake Shaft Gear, the one which engages the differential gear, is going to have a certain amount of gear tooth wear due to the design of the transmission and how "hard" the machine was worked in its lifetime. You may even in chipped or missing teeth. Normally these parts would be replaced during a rebuild, but locating replacements these days is extremely difficult. A simple cleaning with a Dremel tool suffices to remove burrs and level the tooth tops and sides since the machine is not going to be worked hard. You must pay close attention to these details as you are inspecting all of the machines parts, and decide if repair or replacement is warranted in light of how you intend to use the machine in the future. rn NOT YET COMPLETED rn | rn
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